Looking to escape the pressure of Riga 's uber-cool high-heeled, skinny jean wearing crowd?
Then lace up your Doc Martens and make your escape at grunge dungeon Club Depo.
Offering an eclectic program of rock, reggae, ska, metal, and more, the Depo is Riga's hip, underground lair for the more alternative.
It's here I find myself one chilly Friday evening, waiting for admittance amidst a crowd of tattooed and pierced revellers.
After passing muster with a typically jaded bouncer, we enter a dimly lit top bar which doubles as a relaxed café during the day.
People congregate at the bar, nursing drinks over lively conversation.
The Depo has become something of a Riga institution over the years and is the lifeblood of the city's fledgling indie music scene.
It has also been host to a raft of international acts from Scandinavian punk rock outfits to Canadian experimental DJs.
Follow a winding staircase to the Depo's underground main bar.
In a homage to urban, grunge chic the Depo's minimalist décor comprises solely of stripped paint, graffitied toilets and shabby furniture. The low lighting and thrown together interior all add to the venue's relaxed appeal.
The Depo's line-up can include anything from black metal, to rock, reggae and funky lounge beats.
This just might be the unpretentious escape you've been longing for from Riga's hectic, image concious nightlife.
For full gig listings (in Latvian) visit www.klubsdepo.lv
32 Valnu Street, Old Town
Monday, 17 August 2009
Friday, 14 August 2009
High times
Skybar has got to be the definitive Riga bar, complete with unsurpassed views high across the city skyline. A bit of a tourist trap, with prices to match, however this remains a relaxed and elegant place to enjoy a drink. The Balzams mojito comes with a real kick and is highly recommended.
Head to Reval Hotel Latvija (55 Elizabetes Street) and take the lift to the 26th floor and settle in the comfortable chairs for a real bird’s eye view of the city. To enjoy a different perspective make a visit both in the afternoon and evening.
Local’s tip: Skybar might be among the most well known bars in Riga, but it doesn’t come with a monopoly on view. There are a few lesser known spots to enjoy a drink at half the price while still soaking up breathtaking city views. Head to Café Parex Forum (Parex Plaza, Janvara Street); Clock Tower Bar (above Central Station); Gutenbergs summer terrace bar (Doma Laukums 1) and Europa City Hotel (199c Brivibas Street).
Head to Reval Hotel Latvija (55 Elizabetes Street) and take the lift to the 26th floor and settle in the comfortable chairs for a real bird’s eye view of the city. To enjoy a different perspective make a visit both in the afternoon and evening.
Local’s tip: Skybar might be among the most well known bars in Riga, but it doesn’t come with a monopoly on view. There are a few lesser known spots to enjoy a drink at half the price while still soaking up breathtaking city views. Head to Café Parex Forum (Parex Plaza, Janvara Street); Clock Tower Bar (above Central Station); Gutenbergs summer terrace bar (Doma Laukums 1) and Europa City Hotel (199c Brivibas Street).
Wednesday, 12 August 2009
Feeling orange?
Though it’s tucked away in a quietish area in Old Town, there’s nothing shy and retiring about Orange Bar.
This small, unassuming bar really knows how to get the party started. A favourite amongst locals, this place gets packed on weekends. As a general rule the later you come the better the party.
Don’t expect to get a seat, or table for that matter, as party loving locals like to use these to dance the night away in true Riga fashion. The attractive bar staff aren’t shy about getting up on the bar and showing off their moves either.
Not bad, but not one of my favourites, although many locals would disagree.
And yes, in case you were wondering the bar really is orange!
Local’s tip: If you’re not drunk enough to dance on tables and enjoy a bit of conversation with your beer, head elsewhere.
* 5 Jana Seta Street, Old Town
This small, unassuming bar really knows how to get the party started. A favourite amongst locals, this place gets packed on weekends. As a general rule the later you come the better the party.
Don’t expect to get a seat, or table for that matter, as party loving locals like to use these to dance the night away in true Riga fashion. The attractive bar staff aren’t shy about getting up on the bar and showing off their moves either.
Not bad, but not one of my favourites, although many locals would disagree.
And yes, in case you were wondering the bar really is orange!
Local’s tip: If you’re not drunk enough to dance on tables and enjoy a bit of conversation with your beer, head elsewhere.
* 5 Jana Seta Street, Old Town
Back in the U.S.S.R
For a dose of Soviet nostalgia head to Leningrad - the bar.
This lowkey place really gets going later in the evening and is a favourite amongst the student and alternative crowd.
The interior is decked out entirely in Soviet-era kitsch, so much so that at first it feels like you’re stepping into someone’s living room.... Perhaps not far from the truth since the barman’s baby regularly makes an appearance at this friendly, family-run establishment nestled down a quiet alleyway in Old Town.
The barmen really know how to ramp up the party with an eclectic musical selection and are even partial to joining in with revellers for a drink or four. On my last visit the small crowd of weekday party-goers were singing along and up and dancing on the bar (a Riga phenomena) by midnight to a sound track of fun, back in the 90s hits.
Leningrad is unpretentious, fun and a little bit retro. Great place for a relaxed drink or pre-party starter.
Local’s tip: Feel like brushing up on your Russian history? Then check out the selection of classic novels and encyclopaedias from the bookshelf.
54 Kaleju Street, Old Town
Devil of a good time
At Godvil it’s all about the hype...and glamour
From it’s demonic towering logo (a halo with horns), which glows from the clock tower of this converted factory, to the eager crowds jostling at the entrance way and the mafia-styled door gents barring the way, with nothing more important to do, but check UV entry stamps with their polished silver torches.
Inside blaring Russian pop fusion greets a more refined crowd, who prefer to sip on champagne then get down on the dancefloor. This cavernous two-storey club comes complete with discreet lighting and plenty of comfortable lounges, so there’s no shortage of places to get cosy. Note: a bottle of pricey champers seems to be the going rate for the most exclusive couch spaces, with patrolling bouncers enforcing the rule.
Godvil comes as an assault on the senses and people watchers will get a kick out of the jaw dropping beauties and their skimpy, flashy fashions.
Located somewhat inconveniently, the crew behind Godvil have come up with interesting marketing ploys to pull in the crowds, from R&B nights to beach parties, fetish events and oil slathered go-go dancers. Check the website for an up-to-date listing of events.
www.godvil.lv
An electric mini-Moscow experience not for the faint hearted… or scruffy. Over all though this place, much like its glamorous crowd, seems to be trying a bit too hard to impress. Go and embrace the decadence.
Local's tip: This is a place people go to be seen…Bouncers practice face control mercilessly. Here getting dressed up means….dressed up. Backpackers beware…not even your best jeans are going to cut it.
* 214b Brivibas Gatve
Take tram No 6 from K. Barona Streeet to the VEF stop.
From it’s demonic towering logo (a halo with horns), which glows from the clock tower of this converted factory, to the eager crowds jostling at the entrance way and the mafia-styled door gents barring the way, with nothing more important to do, but check UV entry stamps with their polished silver torches.
Inside blaring Russian pop fusion greets a more refined crowd, who prefer to sip on champagne then get down on the dancefloor. This cavernous two-storey club comes complete with discreet lighting and plenty of comfortable lounges, so there’s no shortage of places to get cosy. Note: a bottle of pricey champers seems to be the going rate for the most exclusive couch spaces, with patrolling bouncers enforcing the rule.
Godvil comes as an assault on the senses and people watchers will get a kick out of the jaw dropping beauties and their skimpy, flashy fashions.
Located somewhat inconveniently, the crew behind Godvil have come up with interesting marketing ploys to pull in the crowds, from R&B nights to beach parties, fetish events and oil slathered go-go dancers. Check the website for an up-to-date listing of events.
www.godvil.lv
An electric mini-Moscow experience not for the faint hearted… or scruffy. Over all though this place, much like its glamorous crowd, seems to be trying a bit too hard to impress. Go and embrace the decadence.
Local's tip: This is a place people go to be seen…Bouncers practice face control mercilessly. Here getting dressed up means….dressed up. Backpackers beware…not even your best jeans are going to cut it.
* 214b Brivibas Gatve
Take tram No 6 from K. Barona Streeet to the VEF stop.
The great Riga rip-off
The plethora of cheap flights and subsequent tourist explosion in Riga has its downside. In recent years the city has had to contend with the rise in sex tourism, obnoxious stag parties, as well as fight off a growing image as a city of sleaze and crime.
There have been cases where male tourists have been enticed to bars of dubious repute by leggy blondzines, only to become victims of fraud, intimidation, extortion and even violence. There have been reports of tourists having their credit card details stolen, and assaulted.
The U.S. embassy recently released a blacklist of bars and clubs known to be involved in tourist scams.It’s also worthwhile to remember that many of the night spots and prostitution rings are controlled by the local mafia.
The full list can be viewed here:
http://riga.usembassy.gov/warden0811.html
Being a woman tourist to the Baltics is a completely different experience to that of the male one. While female tourists may find themselves fighting feeling of frumpiness alongside the local glamazons, men on the other hand will think they’ve died and gone to heaven.
One of the main reasons behind this is that women in Latvia significantly outnumber men, and competition is fierce. Foreign men in particular are seen as a good catch. That said most Latvian girls are intelligent, genuine and respectful.
As in all things, a bit of common sense goes a long way, and following a few simple guidelines can also help ensure your stay in Riga is fun and hassle free.
*Never accompany random women, no matter how beautiful and desirable, to a bar.
* Never, ever buy said women a champagne…unless of course you want to wind up with a 600 euro bill and a standover Russian bouncer demanding you pay up.
* Always ask the price of drinks before you buy. Pay upfront and avoid running up a tab.
* Avoid strip bars
* If you are paying by credit card always keep it in your sights and never let anyone else handle it.
* Don’t piss on historic landmarks or otherwise disrespect the locals
* Always negotiate your cab fare before getting in. This is one of the oldest scams in the book
* What made you think a club called Pussy Lounge would be respectable? If it looks dodgy, it probably is.
* Have fun, but behave responsibly – i.e- don’t get so pissed you can’t stand up
* And finally….remember guys….if it seems too good to be true, then it probably is….!!
There have been cases where male tourists have been enticed to bars of dubious repute by leggy blondzines, only to become victims of fraud, intimidation, extortion and even violence. There have been reports of tourists having their credit card details stolen, and assaulted.
The U.S. embassy recently released a blacklist of bars and clubs known to be involved in tourist scams.It’s also worthwhile to remember that many of the night spots and prostitution rings are controlled by the local mafia.
The full list can be viewed here:
http://riga.usembassy.gov/warden0811.html
Being a woman tourist to the Baltics is a completely different experience to that of the male one. While female tourists may find themselves fighting feeling of frumpiness alongside the local glamazons, men on the other hand will think they’ve died and gone to heaven.
One of the main reasons behind this is that women in Latvia significantly outnumber men, and competition is fierce. Foreign men in particular are seen as a good catch. That said most Latvian girls are intelligent, genuine and respectful.
As in all things, a bit of common sense goes a long way, and following a few simple guidelines can also help ensure your stay in Riga is fun and hassle free.
*Never accompany random women, no matter how beautiful and desirable, to a bar.
* Never, ever buy said women a champagne…unless of course you want to wind up with a 600 euro bill and a standover Russian bouncer demanding you pay up.
* Always ask the price of drinks before you buy. Pay upfront and avoid running up a tab.
* Avoid strip bars
* If you are paying by credit card always keep it in your sights and never let anyone else handle it.
* Don’t piss on historic landmarks or otherwise disrespect the locals
* Always negotiate your cab fare before getting in. This is one of the oldest scams in the book
* What made you think a club called Pussy Lounge would be respectable? If it looks dodgy, it probably is.
* Have fun, but behave responsibly – i.e- don’t get so pissed you can’t stand up
* And finally….remember guys….if it seems too good to be true, then it probably is….!!
City that never sleeps
Riga’s cobbled laneways pave the way to a virtual smorgasbord of night time entertainment – from decadent to dodgy; hip and cringe-worthy, the riotous and the bold…it’s not surprising this Baltic capital has earned a reputation as a city of sin.Riga doesn’t do anything by halves, home to arguably the Baltics’ biggest dancefloor, the party really gets started from 11pm onwards as revellers pack out clubs - the city staying at full throttle until the wee hours. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself joining the stiletto heeled locals tripping home on the cobbled stones as the sun peeps out.
There have been growing reports of scams and rip offs on unsuspecting tourists, and visitors are advised to be selective in choosing their place of party. If unsure always ask a local for their recommendation.
Many tourists that come to Riga never manage to escape the confines of Old Town and perhaps that's just as well...Come with me on a nocturnal tour of some of Riga’s night-time institutions, as well as its lesser known spots. A good time guaranteed.
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